An indispensable component of decorative gardening are climbing roses, beautiful bright colors enlivening any composition. They require competent care, in which pruning and shelter of climbing roses in the fall occupy an important place.
Climbing roses are called, having long shoots, the nature and length of which they are divided into different groups.
Types of climbing roses
Curly - the longest, they have flexible green shoots that spread up to 15 meters. They belong to the real roses. Small terry flowers are collected in the buds, covering the entire length of the shoot. This type was named Rambler. Most of its varieties are winter hardiness. They have enough light dry shelter. Curly roses give abundant bloom in June and July.
Climbing roses, called Climber, were bred from other varieties by climbing. They bloom profusely in the form of inflorescences, collected from large flowers. Some varieties give and re-bloom. Plants are winter-hardy and resistant to powdery mildew.
The third species is derived from spray roses as a result of mutations. They are called climbing. Varieties differ in larger flowers - up to 11 cm in diameter and are adapted mainly to mild climatic conditions.
Different types of climbing roses require different pruning methods, depending on the characteristics of the species. Proper pruning performs the following tasks:
- getting rid of old shoots, the plant is rejuvenated;
- removal of excess shoots contributes to thinning the bush and provides uniform illumination and access of air;
- when pruning, decorative bush formation occurs;
- the rose gives a more lush flowering, the root system is strengthened and more intensively developed;
- there is a higher concentration of nutrients;
- increases plant resistance to diseases;
- too large bushes are difficult to cover for the winter;
- pruning gives quality breeding material for bushes.
If the roses are not cut, they will start to hurt and bloom less, and may eventually die. Novice gardeners who do not yet know how to properly trim a rose can use a simplified pruning form:
- halve the height of the bush;
- remove all old or dead shoots, cutting them off at the very base.
In order to determine the old escape, you need to carefully inspect the bush. Old branches are much thicker than others, the bark on them is characterized by excessive dryness. They are also distinguished by a large number of lateral shoots, which are worse provided by nutrition due to the considerable lignification of the main stem. Pruning old branches helps the bush to be updated.
Necessary equipment for trimming
To properly prune, you need to prepare a high-quality tool:
- pruner, garden knife or saw should be well-honed, otherwise they will not be able to provide smooth cuts;
- a blunt instrument will leave tattered sections that will become a source of infection for the hive;
- before cutting it is necessary to sanitize the instrument;
- work should be in tight working gloves that protect against spikes;
- for collecting old branches it is better to use a garden rake.
Slices need to be treated with a disinfectant. You can use for this:
- garden pitch;
- potassium permanganate or blue vitriol;
- crushed activated carbon or wood ash.
When to prune
Autumn pruning of climbing roses can be started only when the air temperature at night stably remains at around minus three degrees - for the middle lane this time coincides with the end of October. If pruning earlier, the warm weather will contribute to the development of buds, which will lead to the death of the shoots in winter. It is impossible to carry out pruning even in August, since the appeared shoots will not have time to woody before the frost and will die. Frozen branch then thawed and becomes a favorable breeding ground for fungi.
In order to prevent the emergence and subsequent freezing of the shoots, from summer it is necessary to take preventive measures:
- at the end of July, stop feeding the climbing roses with nitrogen compounds;
- to increase the application of potash and phosphorus fertilizers - the first will help strengthen the root system of the plant and more quickly ripen the already existing shoots, and phosphorus will feed the future buds;
- after the last feeding you need to stop removing flowers - this measure will help prevent the growth of new buds.
General rules for pruning
Trimming for the winter climbing roses should be carried out in dry sunny weather, adhering to the following recommendations:
- first of all diseased and damaged shoots are removed; woody branches must be removed with a hacksaw;
- On the bush there should be 4-5 shoots of the current year, evenly spaced;
- white branches are cut off - they will freeze anyway and become a source of diseases;
- it is also necessary to remove the shoots directed inside the rose bush - when they grow, they will thicken it;
- all old shoots after pruning should be burned immediately;
- pruning should be carried out above the kidney, at a distance of 4-5 mm from it;
- bud must be on the outside of the shoot;
- the cut must be inclined and run at an angle of 45 degrees - then the moisture will not remain on it;
- Leaves and dried flowers should also be removed.
- often shoots with small leaves appear from the base of the roots - this wild growth should be pruned immediately, otherwise the whole shrub also “runs wild”.
With the rules of pruning can be found by watching the video.
Differences in pruning depending on the variety
From the length of the lashes, the number of branches and the height of the bush depends on the type of pruning.
- In large-flowered climbing varieties of roses, in which most of the buds are located in the upper part of the shoots, a long pruning is performed. Removed the third part of all branches. On the remaining shoots should be no more than 10 buds. After wintering, bright inflorescences will appear along their entire length.
- Before sheltering roses from the winter cold, average pruning is most effective. It is quite gentle, and is suitable for almost all kinds of roses. The exceptions are curly. With an average pruning on the shoots up to 7 buds are left.
- A short pruning of roses is rarely carried out in the autumn, as after it there is a danger of roses freezing. It can be carried out in areas with mild winters and mainly for small-flowered varieties. With a short pruning on the shoots leave only up to three buds.
Groundcover roses in the fall can be and not cut, while climbing only the damaged branches or very old ones are removed.
If the trimming of a climbing rose is done incorrectly, it will die in winter. Her bush should be cut only by a third, removing old, last year’s branches and broken shoots. This will provide an opportunity to update and the emergence of new inflorescences.
At the same time with trimming climbing roses, their garter should also be cut, which will guide the whip in a horizontal or inclined position.
Shelter roses for the winter
Covering climbing roses for the winter is necessary only after the onset of constant frosts. They calmly tolerate the effects of small frosts and even become more resistant to cold, but will not withstand sudden temperature changes. If you cover the roses before the frost, the buds will begin to germinate, and the plant will die. To cover the bushes you need to choose dry weather:
- peeled off the leaves and old shoots of the scourge twist and bend to the ground, putting a lapnik underneath;
- then you should strengthen the lash in the ground with reliable hooks;
- from above to warm fir branches, wooden boxes or cardboard boxes;
- cover the whole structure with one of the types of modern covering materials.
If pruning of climbing roses, their shelter and all measures to prepare the bushes for winter are carried out correctly, they will thank with lush bright blooms next summer.